I had entirely forgotten about this bird until it landed on my screen last weekend as I was searching for photos of a hike from long ago. Even then the memory of it was faint, overshadowed by its impossibly beautiful surroundings.

I spotted it as it was briefly foraging at the edge of the glacier-fed Los Gnomos Lagoon which rests at the terminus of the Sendero Bosque Encantado, or Enchanted Forest Trail, a hiking trail in Chile’s Quelat National Park that lives up to its name. (Photos from that walk to follow.)

Merlin identified it as a Dark-bellied Cinclodes, immediately distinguishing it from the Buff-winged Cinclodes, probably due it its darker upper parts and (doh!) darker belly. I can’t speak to that – for me the key is likely the location. Buff-winged Cinclodes prefer rocky terrains and grasslands in higher elevations, according to eBird; the Los Gnomos lagoon sits at about 700m (2296 ft) above sea level and the average elevation along the Sendero Bosue Encantado is roughly 580m (1902 ft), which isn’t considered high altitude in the southern Andes. The Dark-bellied Cinclodes is also said to prefer wet forest edges and elevations up to 3500m. That’s not conclusive however, as both are plentiful in southern South America. Two birders from Chile on iNaturalist have also suggested Dark-bellied, so I’ll go with that for now, too.

The description goes on to explain the Dark-bellied Cinclodes’ unique foraging style during which it can be seen flipping over rocks and digging through the newly uncovered mud for food. I do wish I remembered seeing that. I do remember, quite vividly, the setting.

Dark-bellied Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus) in brief (with assist from WordPress AI but double-checked by me at Birds of the World and Wikipedia):

• Size: 20 to 25 cm (8 to 10 in)
• Weight: Approximately 50 to 70 g (1.8 to 2.5 oz)
• Diet: Insects, crustaceans, and plant matter
• Habitat: Found in freshwater wetlands, coastal areas, and grasslands; Countries: Argentina, Chile, and Peru; Regions: Patagonia and surrounding areas
• Physical Description: Dark brown upperparts with a pale, dark-bellied; Streaked breast, with pale flanks and a long tail
• Breeding: Breeds from October to March; Nests in crevices or under rocks, often near water
• Conservation Status: Least Concern (IUCN)
• Primary Predators: Birds of prey, mammals, and snakes
• Unique Behaviors: Known for its distinctive foraging behavior, often seen turning over rocks or sifting through mud
• Range of Migration: Primarily resident, with some movements noted in response to seasonal changes; Migration patterns are somewhat localized and closely tied to habitat availability.

Links for further reference:

• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at Birds of the World
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at BirdLife DataZone
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at eBird
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at Avibase
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at Wikipedia
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at Oiseaux.net
• Dark-bellied Cinclodes at iNaturalist

Tossed into the mix for this week’s Bird of the Week hosted by I.J on his site Don’t Hold Your Breath.

Photos from 24 February 2013; post last updated on 1 August 2026.